Dermatologists Say You Can Live Without: Hyaluronic Acid Serums

The most talked about, shared, and seen on social media over the last 2-3 years, Hyaluronic Acid (HA), is a powerful, naturally occurring molecule found in our skin and connective tissues. Its primary function is to bind water, earning it the title of the ultimate ‘moisture magnet‘ in the beauty industry.

But is this highly ingredient truly an essential step in a minimalist skincare routine?

To understand the question and answer, we must first appreciate why HA became a skincare staple.

Firstly, what does Hyaluronic Acid do? HA acts as a humectant—a substance that attracts and holds water. This property is crucial for skin elasticity and plumpness. It is often the first ingredient suggested because its water-binding properties produce immediate, visible results.

High-molecular-weight HA sits purely on the skin’s outermost layer. When it pulls water, it swells, creating the highly desired ‘plump’ or ‘glass skin’ effect that consumers feel instantly. This illusion of quick results drives its continuous commercial success, regardless of long-term health barriers.

So, how to use? Dermatologists agree, HA is a high-maintenance ingredient. To ensure safety and effectiveness, you must follow two non-negotiable steps. Skipping either one can sabotage its intended effect: Always apply HA to a freshly cleansed, damp face. Applying it to dry skin provides no external water source.

HA must be sealed with a strong moisturizer within 60 seconds. This creates a barrier, trapping the water-HA complex on the surface and preventing moisture from escaping the skin. Especially if applied during the day, this must be followed by a broad-spectrum SPF.

*If your sunscreen is not moisturizing enough, first apply the serum to damp skin, then apply the moisturizer, and then apply the sunscreen.

Furthermore, because the serum offers an immediate, temporary plumping—a fleeting and glass skin illusion of hydration—many dermatologists recommend applying it in the morning when the goal is for the skin to appear vibrant, dewy, and taut for the day. This recommendation implicitly acknowledges that the effect is short-lived.

The dermatologists are clear: The complicated routine required to make HA safe (applying to wet skin, sealing with a moisturizer, adding mandatory SPF) often adds unnecessary complexity and cost to the skincare process. 

Reinvest that effort and cost in a simple moisturizer rich in Ceramides and Glycerin. Measure your skin’s health by its resilience, not by its temporary plumpness.

Choose clean, uncomplicated skin health over the illusion of quick results.